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KMID : 0604519960220020132
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
1996 Volume.22 No. 2 p.132 ~ p.140
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Effect on Skin Irritation and Turnover Rate by the Control of Skin Permeability of Alpha-hydroxyacids
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Lee, Cheon-Koo
Hong, Seong-Don/Park, Mun-Eok/Park, Sun-Gyoo/Jeong, Seong-Hoon/Kang, She-Hoon
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Abstract
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The effect of a novel delivery system, water in oil emulsion cont as a inner phase (W/O-C) was evaluated, and the relationships between the skin permeation, the skin primary irritation and the skin turnover rate of AHAs were discussed. We selected glycolic acid (GA), lactic acid (LA), malic acid (MA), and tartaric acid (TA) as model AHAs.
The steady state fluxes of 4 AHAs across the excised hairless mouse skin increased as the molecular weights of the AHAs decreased (GA>LA>MA>TA). The skin turnover times were shortened in all AHAs, compared with control. The skin permeation and the skin primary irritation of the LA decreased and the skin turnover time increased, as the pH increased. The maximum therapeutic index was obtained with pH 3.8, 0.5. M LA. It was suggested that the skin permeability of LA might be a main factor for prediction of the skin irritation and the skin turnover time. On the other hand, the W/O-C containing pH 3.8, 0.5 M LA indicated a good sustained release property of LA, compared with water in oil emulsion without chitosan hydrogel (W/O) or oil in water emulsion (O/W).
The skin permeability and the skin irritation of AHAs from the W/O-C decreased, compared with, W/O or OM/, however the skin turnover time showed almost the same value as W/O or O/W.
In conclusion, we suggest that the control of the skin permeation of AHAs would be an important tool for reducing the skin irritation and for maintaining the positive effect of AHAs, and the W/O-C system could be a potential candidate for future cosmetological application of AHAs.
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